What would you buy?

"Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow" (chriskf) 08/22/2016 at 14:10 • Filed to: None

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80

Affordable DD/Autox edition

A little bored at work and figured I’d present Oppo with a little car-undrum.

You’re looking to buy a new (to you) vehicle for $5-10k. It will be your only vehicle, so it is daily driven, but you’d also like to race it competitively in autox. Because it’s your DD you’d like it to be reliable, decently clean (i.e. not a bashed up track beater), and comfortable/utilitarian enough for the occasional road trip. As stated, you also want to play race car driver on the weekends with your local autox group, while still keeping parts/consumables on the lower end of the cost spectrum.

In my opinion, the answer to this question happens to be the answer to all automotive quandaries: An NB MX-5.

So what would Oppo buy?

FSI - alcohol enthusiast with a car problem > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:12

2

BMW E30/E36/E46.

S65 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:14

2

EK Civic

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:15

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You can get a pretty slick AW11 for that. It has two trunks!

not for canada - australian in disguise > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:15

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The answer is always Celica.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/…

It’s underbudget, so I’d spend the extra money on replacing the seats, and the plastidipped wheels and fuel filler cap.

dogisbadob > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:16

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The G35 probably has enough aftermarket support, so I’ll say that. Or a Mazda 5 (same exact suspension as the 3, so plenty of aftermarket support)

The Accord V6 manual sedan is cool, but I HATE transverse V6 engines. The Mazdaspeed 6 (a turbo-4) might be a bit out of reach

Viggen > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:17

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Maybe an E46 or a WRX.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > dogisbadob 08/22/2016 at 14:18

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I was actually thinking 350Z at first, because they can be pretty competitive in CS autox. But I’d imagine that with the size of brakes and wheels, consumables for autox would get fairly expensive.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > not for canada - australian in disguise 08/22/2016 at 14:18

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All Tracs are pretty awesome, but harder and harder to come by now.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > S65 08/22/2016 at 14:19

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Not a bad choice at all. Tough thing is finding one that isn’t rusted and/or riced to shit. haha

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 14:19

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SW30s really do seem rather underrated to me. I bet they’d be a great little car to drive.

djmt1 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:20

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MR2 then rip the 2ZZ out of a Celica and create a budget Lotus Elise. It may lack a boot like the Lotus but I’ll have that famed Toyota reliability and it won’t rust like a Mazda. Also LSDs are standard on UK MR2s which is a plus.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Viggen 08/22/2016 at 14:21

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The problem with WRXs is that they’re all riced and beat to crap by the flat-brimmed Monster cap wearing bros that are in love with Ken Block. haha

E46's are solid, although idk that I’d say that parts/consumables are all that cheap.

Shift24 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:21

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Reliable, cheap to fix, and Top Gear approved

05 GTO 6.0L 6 speed. Talk him down some but these things are going to jump in price in about 5 years. Plus I used to DD a 4th gen Fbody so should be fine, though i hear the seats arent the best in these

https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5711032731…

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Shift24 08/22/2016 at 14:22

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I have heard very much the opposite in terms of reliability. haha

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > djmt1 08/22/2016 at 14:24

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I do like these a lot, but not sure how well it’d do on a roadtrip with two people and their accompanying bags. haha

KnowsAboutCars > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:25

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Right now? This + this . Don’t ask why.

djmt1 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:26

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The answer is badly. let’s hope it doesn’t rain or at the very least your bags have some level of waterproofing.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > KnowsAboutCars 08/22/2016 at 14:26

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Lol idk if that’d meet the COG standards for autox...

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:26

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They’re excellent. People mostly wrote it off because it has the wrong motor in it. It’s a better chassis than the AW11 and weighs the same. Drop a 2ZZ in and stiffen the suspension and you’ve got yourself a poor man’s Lotus for under ten grand.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 14:28

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The only draw back to them, in my book, becomes storage space.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:29

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Yeah, they’re not as good as the AW11s in that regard which have a larger frunk and a trunk. I’ve heard that the space behind the seats is a decent size in the MKIIIs, but I’ve never looked closely. FWIW, it’s surprisingly large in the AW11s as well, so another +1 on the OG MR2.

The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:31

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$10k USD comes to $13k CAD.

This 2009 Mini Clubman JCW. It has the Auto-x essentials: low end torque, a LSD, barn doors, brown interior, light weight (2768lbs). $11,900.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:32

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A first gen CTS-V should be able to be had for that budget. And you get back seats if you need them.

Tekamul > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:32

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A turn of the century Boxster. A little wrenching will be required, but it will be both exhilarating and comfortable.

But not this one, as it is terrible.

nerd_racing > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 14:34

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aw11 is my vote too. I miss mine some days...

The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock > not for canada - australian in disguise 08/22/2016 at 14:34

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The thumb strikes back.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc 08/22/2016 at 14:38

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I’d imagine that one might not tick the box next to affordable parts/consumables haha

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Tekamul 08/22/2016 at 14:39

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Lol Idk if that meets the cheap parts/consumables portion though.

CobraJoe > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 14:41

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I’m actually going to look at an ‘86 tonight.

The guys is asking about double what the next most expensive AW11 listed though (His price is $2500 for a 160k mile car, next most expensive is $1350 for 170k mile), so I’m curious why he thinks it’s worth so much.

Shift24 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:41

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Engine and trans are normally sound (LS1 or LS2 and T56 or 4l60-E?), problem is like any Vtec civic it was probably beaten hard and put up wet. Wiring harnesses like to rub and cause BCM issues (easy fix), Strut issues (get new ones), Fuel line rub (fixed on 05-06), and Radius Rod bushings

TheD0k_2many toys 2little time > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:42

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as a NB Miata owner you are correct

Tripper > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:45

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I’d go with the yata all day unless I found a steal of a deal on an E30 325 with minimal problems.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > CobraJoe 08/22/2016 at 14:48

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These things rust like crazy. If his runs well, and is low-rust (no such thing as rust free), it’s worth that and then some. They’re getting hard to find. Engine’s solid til well past 200k. I pushed mine that I already knew was on its last legs for about 20k miles to 230 with a ton of track days before killing that engine. Yours might have the rear sway bar attachment points which is a good thing.

Die-Trying > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 14:52

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1969 VW Beetle - $4100 (Kerrville)

its in the general budget area,

Viggen > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:05

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Fair enough, but around here there’s enough soldiers who’re desperate to sell their cars that you can find decent cars for cheap. On the flip side they’ll also try to sell them for stupid high prices.

Decay buys too many beaters > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:14

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Keep the FR-S?

Daily + weekend racecar + cheap consumables is basically it’s raison d’etre

Arrivederci > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:19

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NB Miata or SVT Focus. The latter has been really competitive in its class at the local AutoX.

CobraJoe > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 15:20

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I’ve heard that they like to rust, but I haven’t really looked at any in person to see where and how bad they get. As for the mileage, I’m not too worried, I’ve owned several cars up past that mileage and I’m used to the small repairs that come with that age.

Honestly, I’m most worried about the idea that I’ll like it too much and get it and cause a massive delay in the plans for my next project car.

Arrivederci > The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock 08/22/2016 at 15:21

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That seems like a pretty solid deal.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > CobraJoe 08/22/2016 at 15:22

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That happened with mine. It was beat to shit and supposed to be a LeMons car. The beat-to-shit bodyshell is pretty much all that’s left from when I bought it. I fell in love with it pretty quickly.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Decay buys too many beaters 08/22/2016 at 15:24

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Someone figured out what this might actually be about. haha

But the idea is for me to free up more money to save for life things. Greatly reducing (or ideally eliminating) my car payments, lowering insurance, and cheaper parts/consumables (I’d say the FR-S is in the low-mid to mid range of parts/consumables cost) would be a big step in that direction.

My bird IS the word > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:24

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Ls swap

interstate366, now In The Industry > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:25

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If I lived in Canada, I’d import a Prelude Type S.

ChooChooMotherFudger > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:26

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Subaru Impeza.

Good at autocross, reliable, comfortable, and get a wagon for those road trips.

Found few in that price range

SkyNet > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:36

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Parts are cheap but it would suck on an autocross course. Too heavy.

SkyNet > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:37

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I would keep the FR-S.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > SkyNet 08/22/2016 at 15:39

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The idea is to eliminate the car payment, get cheaper insurance, and cheaper parts/consumables (smaller wheels = cheaper wheels and tires)

AfromanGTO > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:40

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2004 GTO or 350Z

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > AfromanGTO 08/22/2016 at 15:41

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Both are considerations, but big wheels = big tires = a lot more monies on autox wheels/tires.

AfromanGTO > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:51

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Both run either 17s or 18s which are fairly cheap for autocross wheels and tires. If they ran 19s I would give you that one.

Nonster > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:52

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S2000's still dominate at the AutoX nationals in STR

Sam > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 15:57

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If this is something you’re going to be actually doing, get an NB. I had one, and it’s very good as a day-to-day car if you don’t have anyone you need to carry around often.

We swapped the entire engine for about $500 and 3 days of time.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > AfromanGTO 08/22/2016 at 16:09

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The FR-S I’m in now runs them too... haha

AfromanGTO > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 16:12

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Hahaha!

CobraJoe > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 16:15

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The worst thing about delaying my next project car is that it’s basically an AW11 to the extreme. I’m wanting to build a tube frame mid engine street buggy locost type thing. I have the garage space and most of the necessary tools and skills... I just need the cash and to leave that garage space open.

Oh well, there’s always the slow way of building a car from scratch: One piece at a time.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > CobraJoe 08/22/2016 at 16:16

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With the cost of even locost builds, I’d be mighty tempted to do the FF 818.

CobraJoe > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/22/2016 at 16:29

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Funny thing: I was originally planning on making my own Subaru mid engine car before the 818 was even announced, but that one quickly got too complex for a garage build (had custom knuckles and required 3d tubing bender). This one is a much simpler frame with a lot more factory sourced parts, still adds up to around $4500 (probably more) in parts. But it would be close to 1000 pounds curb weight and with a little bit more power than an AW11.

But that ‘86 that I’ll see tonight is already built and actually has a roof...

Sorry for the off topic, I’ve spent far too much time thinking about this. I just need to go drive the car.

SkyNet > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 16:34

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I know, I still think the payment (assuming your financial circumstances still allow it) is worth it. That said, if I have to pick something, I vote a used WRX.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > SkyNet 08/22/2016 at 16:36

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I can afford the payment, but would just prefer something cheaper or zero payment at all. Another option would be refinancing to lower the payment and converting the car back to CS spec, which I’m considering.

SkyNet > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 16:53

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Not a bad option. FRS’ seems more practical as a DD than the Miata and FRS’ also seem to do fairly well auto crossing. Plus, since its a DD, less headache than an old car, even if it is a Miata.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > SkyNet 08/22/2016 at 17:09

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Yep. Think I’m starting to lean this way.

I think I’ll just have to give up track days for a little while as another way to save. (Still have the option of driving friends’ budget racers though! haha)

SkyNet > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 17:17

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Give up or cut down on track days and increase autocross days.

Decay buys too many beaters > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 17:25

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Then yeah, either Miata or MR-2 (or a 240 in the unlikely event you can find a clean one)

And after looking at most of the suggestions here.... Just don’t give up on life and go FWD, friends don’t let friends go FWD.

Out, but with a W - has found the answer > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 17:30

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Yay for all the W30 love!

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Decay buys too many beaters 08/22/2016 at 17:30

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Another option I’m considering, pretty strongly, is to just refinance the car for lower payments (I can bring them down at least $150/mo), switch my prep back to CS (or DS, depending on what rulings happen in regard to the cars), and stop doing track days in the car; which would all allow me to save a good bit of money.

daender > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 18:52

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NB2 owner chiming in, yes you can daily it but it’s not all sunshine and rainbows as they are a few annoying quirks. Super-competitive from an autocross standpoint. I can expand more on NB stuff if you want.

GTO: lol, no, they do not have a lot of room for handling improvement unless you want to extend your studs and cut away at your fenders. You can maybe squeak 1.5-2 degrees of negative camber on the front. IMO, they’re great straight-line cars but not so much in the turn unless you want to open up your wallet. Also, they’re running on a razor’s edge between clean and salvage title due to the expensive prices of replacement body panels (IE: no longer existing). A simple rear-ending has been enough to write one off despite the affordability (well, in comparison to getting a Pontiac part) of importing Holden panels from Aus and having them painted to match.

Oddball suggestion: S197 Mustang GT

Pros:

Maximum Motorsports have everything you need to build a corner-carving S197 Stang...and the factory setup (it was supposed to be IRS) is pretty good minus the springs being too soft and/or the shocks are under-dampened. (GT500 uses standard GT springs, wtf)

Decent on gas when on the highway. Pops is able to average about 26-27 (sometimes 28) mpg if he uses cruise control and keeps off the loud pedal on highways. It really needs a 6th gear or converting his diff from a 3.55 to the more sedate 3.31 OEM ratio.

As with suspension, you could drown yourself in aftermarket parts for just about anything involving a S197 from cosmetics to performance.

Price-wise, you should already start seeing decent un-modified 100k GTs under 10k$ by now. I recommend getting a ‘07 because the ‘08+ have those annoying tire pressure sensors in the wheels.

Cons:

It loves gasoline when in traffic and when accelerating. I don’t recommend it if you have to do a lot of stop and go.

Interior quality is hit or miss. Pop bought his ‘08 GT from CarMax with about 7k on the odometer. It’s been running fine but one plastic trim piece on the interior ceiling keeps popping out on one end and the faux-leather inserts on the door panels started un-gluing themselves (easy fix, but the symptoms are common in areas with hot weather and high humidity).

Rear-end hop is a bitch on non-sticky tires and/or in the rain. Maximum Motorsports, Roush, and many others offer kits to help reduce it.

The stock Pirelli tires SUCK ASS. No debate, they suck especially in the rain. Get some Goodyears or Bridgestones on them ASAP.

Everyone wants to race you and cops will follow you. The brigther/more flashy your GT is, the more that shit happens.

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > AfromanGTO 08/22/2016 at 22:04

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I still want to autox my GTO, but I think that the track-worthiness and consumables side of it don’t work to its advantage. And it would be quite a bit of a workout with the weight (which is does handle better than they would think) and the slow factory steering rack.

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 08/22/2016 at 22:07

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Fiero. Mid-engined, light (relatively), and very inexpensive consumables even if you plus size the wheels. You would probably want t upgrade the brakes, but that’s not too hard with other off the shelf parts. Downside is that it’s old, so it doesn’t have the comforts that a FR-S has. But the early ones do have speakers in the headrests. :P

AfromanGTO > jdrgoat - Ponticrack? 08/23/2016 at 00:39

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You can still get lucky and find an expensive fast rack for around 2 grand. GTOs are a lot more fun on a track day than autocross. Autocross is basically a drift course for the GTO. My fastest time was sliding around most of the corners. Some do have them set up for those tight courses, but it isn’t the GTO’s strong point. A large road course is so much more fun and rewarding.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > CobraJoe 08/23/2016 at 08:57

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Under 1000 lbs and that price seem really ambitious. Give the AW11 a try. It won’t win any drag races, but you’ll still have plenty of fun dancing around cones in one.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > SkyNet 08/23/2016 at 10:32

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Yeah, a bit porky, and parts aren't too bad, mostly GM parts bin. Except for the transmission, it's a one off case design. 4 do corvette yo.

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > AfromanGTO 08/23/2016 at 10:39

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I’ve got a fast rack and HSV wheel in my car, but I haven’t been to any events since I’ve installed them. I know they’re much more pleasant to drive with in general, though. I also have a CTS-V1 brake kit to install. This probably won’t happen before I sell the car, though. Sadly. I didn’t even make it to a road course after putting on the 05-06 brakes.

It’s definitely a fun road course car, and BIR (Brainerd, MN) is pretty well suited to it in the long course configuration (highest speed straight in the US, if I remember right).

AfromanGTO > jdrgoat - Ponticrack? 08/23/2016 at 12:29

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You have to go to a few autocross events then! Time to go to the roadcourse one last time! Remember to let me buy the fastrack from you before you sell it. (I hope you won’t sell it, because your GTO is way to nice to end up in FPFQ hands.)

CobraJoe > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 08/23/2016 at 12:54

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I did test drive it last night, it was a fun little car and surprisingly rust free.

However, it was in pretty bad condition otherwise. Tires, alignment, transmission (grinds into 2nd gear), and electronics all had issues in addition to the normal cracked dash, poor paint, worn suspension, and other common problems from high mileage 80's cars. Just a bit too much work for the price, and not an equal trade for the ‘88 Thunderbird I was offering. So, if you want a rust free AW11, I know where one is...

But as for my tube frame car, I’m going for it once I get some cash and garage space freed up. I’ve been working on the design in CAD for 2 years in my free time, D16 or B18 powered, full tube frame, minimal bodywork.... If any of the weight estimates I’ve found for engine/trans/wheels/brakes are close to accurate, It should be under 1200 pounds, and under 1100 pounds if I can live with poly seats and find lighter wheels/tires. Plus, I’ll be building the car I’ve been dreaming about for about 10 years now.

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > AfromanGTO 08/24/2016 at 18:56

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I’ll have to do something, after I replace the durn driveshaft center carrier bearing. I really haven’t gotten myself motivated to drop the exhaust and driveshaft.

My car isn’t perfect... nearly 140k miles of DD duty will always come with some evidence. She still photographs well, though. :) I would like to sell the rack and steering wheel as a package, you know there’s no way that I’d get any decent return by keeping them on the car!

My goal has pretty much always been to not appear like a FPFQ’er. As should everyone’s goal. :P

AfromanGTO > jdrgoat - Ponticrack? 08/25/2016 at 12:19

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Thankfully I don’t haven any problems with my driveshaft, but one day I’d like to replace it with another 2 piece one that can handle more power.

The photos of your GTO look good! Just keep a good coat of wax on it! :)

Let me know when you want to sell the steering wheel and fast rack. I will buy them from you. :)

Also people are looking for splash guards, so be sure to take those off too.

That’s what most GTO owners intend to do, and avoid the FPFQ as well. lol

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > AfromanGTO 08/26/2016 at 19:26

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Splash guards? Like mudflaps? I don’t have any of those, so that’s off the table.

This talk makes me want to find a way to not sell, lol. Planning on doing track stuff again with that car sounds so fun.

You know she’s always had a coat of wax. And Rain-x. And I’ve buffed it twice, too.

My driveshaft itself is fine... I’ve never (wait, I can’t say never, I’ve been to the dragstrip), hardly ever spun the wheels in a burnout or launch aside from in the winter. It’s the rubber bushing around the carrier bearing that’s bad. Or, well, it’s gone, actually. You can jiggle the driveshaft around an inch in each direction at the middle of the car. There wasn’t much to suggest that it was going/gone until it developed a shake on the highway. I would recommend looking at yours just to be safe.

I’ll let you know about the rack and wheel for sure when that time comes.

AfromanGTO > jdrgoat - Ponticrack? 08/27/2016 at 00:15

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Oh I thought your GTO did. Ok it had to be the other oppositelock yellow GTO. I forget there are two of you.

Don’t sell it if you don’t have too. I missed my first one so much I had to pick up my blue one. Track stuff with GTOs is always fun! Mine always has a coat of wax on it, but I need to clay it again.

Fortunately the driveshaft flex disc coupler isn’t that expensive, but I heard it is a pain to install. It is 79-89 dollars from GTOG8TA. Here’s the link.

http://gtog8ta.com/04-06-drivesha…

Eric is the owner and he’s a good guy. He is able to get hard to find parts, and he has been making parts that are no longer available. I sent him my best floor mat clip, and he is now making brand new ones. Those thing were ridiculously priced from the dealer, and they tended to break....

That sounds great about letting me know about the rack and wheel. :-)

jdrgoat - Ponticrack? > AfromanGTO 08/27/2016 at 18:14

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I’ve got ... too many cars for my own good right now. And since my truck has been DD for the past year (I was alternating for a while), the GTO has been sitting way too much. And I got my Fiero(s) as a toy now, too.

That’s where I got my center carrier bearing from. I think that I’m going to get the guibos for the front and rear from there, while I’m at it, from there too.

I think I have a couple of the original floor mat clips... When I bought the car with 33k miles, they were already breaking. I have some that someone back in the day was making and selling on ebay, they’re made of brass.

That’s one of the best parts of GTO ownership, the development in the community from other owners. I’ve got a Svede intake, a Mavman spoiler, those floor mat clips, a different skidplate that I don’t have to take off to change the oil filter (car didn’t have one when I bought it), reprogrammed the cluster, I have the parts for the CTS-V brakes, etc, etc... It just doesn’t end with what you can do to the car thanks to individual fans!

AfromanGTO > jdrgoat - Ponticrack? 08/27/2016 at 21:41

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I see your dilema. I sold my 71 Formula Firebird before moving down here, but I refuse to get rid of my GTO. Fiero’s are fun little cars, and there is a nice build in the Lounge of LS1GTO of a blue Fiero titled IBM on a different color.

Are you referring to the James Biz floor mat clips? I have two of those as well.

That is one of the best parts of GTO ownership, and helping test out their products. I was one of the testers for the 6 piston front 4 piston rear CTS-V Brembo kits. I want the Banned One to build my rear dif when it goes bad. Hinson has been pretty good about developing some new parts for the GTO like their motor and trans mount and short throw shifter. Pedders is even back in the US market now.